Is the Kitchen now an Experience?
Is dining out now a form of entertainment to rival Hollywood and Broadway?
My answer for high end restaurants is a most definite YES! However, 21st century chefs should embrace not only the glamour that comes with the profession, but acknowledge the much higher bar of expectations to live up to. Unfortunately, for many restaurants, that bar is simply not being met.
On the most recent visit to Chef's Table of Lucia at Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, the exuberant extortion showcased how not to hype the experience up, and then leave the patronage excessively limp with disappointment.
Lucia's promised having an intimate experience, with Chef's Table set in the middle of the kitchen. The meal would consist of 8 bespoke dishes created by the chef exclusively for the private setting. The reality was extremely far away from the mirage created by the aura crafted by modern television.
What was meant to be an intimate interaction with the Chef and the patrons turned out to be a greeting, a hi and a smile. That's it.
What was meant to be an intimately crafted meal of dishes to travel through the Californian countryside turned out to be traditional dishes (albeit for the truffle scrambled eggs), more full of size than intricacy.
What was meant to be an experience of creations not seen on any menu, trialed to be different and challenge the palette, turned out to be a repetition of mash, greenery and conventional grilled salmon.
Lucia's Chef's Table was disappointing, and even more so when faced with the bill which was 2x or even 3x as expensive at some of the highly rated Michelin spots in Europe. And this brings me to reflect on the value that the Michelin raters bring to gastronomy of today.
When Michelin first published their guide - it was to encourage motorists to venture out, to drive, to travel long distance to see and experience for themselves the highest rated sights and dining destinations.
The expertise and critique has proved to be so successful that the guide is almost as famous as the tire making company. And the restaurants that are proud to carry the much coveted Michelin stars are worthwhile experiences, that challenge your perspectives and tastes. They are successful specifically because they provide so much more than just a nourishing experience - they truly entertain.
And this entertainment is specifically what the Michelin starred restaurants possess that many aspire to. Unfortunately, as was the case at Lucia, many restaurants in this day and age charge, but fail to deliver. This was another lesson learnt. Do not fall prey to the marketing. Trust the reviews, Yelp, Tripadvisor, and especially Michelin.
